Onikano is an extraordinary place, a magical slice of the Amazon where you truly feel as one with the jungle environment. It is a vast property, including a large lake (perfect for swimming on those stifling Amazonian days) and an extensive expanse of jungle. Since I first started attending Onikano five years ago there has been a tremendous investment in the retreat infrastructure. Several new buildings have been constructed and the facilities are terrific. Accommodation is simple yet comfortable and includes individual bungalows for all – it’s important to have your own space when doing this deep, introspective work – and there is a spacious ceremonial house and dining room.

I recently completed my sixth stint here. My first three retreats I was part of the regular healing program, and then for my subsequent visits I participated in the dietero training program. Before discovering Onikano I had been to other Peruvian ayahuasca retreats (some good ones too), however, once I discovered Onikano and Maestro Heberto there was no question of going elsewhere. When you find a great shaman, stick to them! Indeed, the lynchpin holding it all together is Maestro Heberto. This humble, softly-spoken man is an extraordinary shaman, capable of remarkable feats of healing and I have learnt much from him. He is a man of great integrity and I trust him implicitly. Sometimes ceremonies can be challenging affairs, but I know that with Heberto in control I am safe and need never be afraid.

An important features which differentiates Onikano from most other retreats is the close contact with the shaman. In many retreats shamans are brought in just for ceremonies and this is your only interaction, but at Onikano the Maestro is on site six days a week. He takes a personal interest in the individual treatment of every single pasajero. Every pasajero receives a personal diagnostic from the maestro at both the beginning and conclusion of their retreat. Furthermore, if you have any questions about your treatment you can speak to him directly during the week (don’t worry if you cannot speak Spanish – there are excellent translators).

Initially, it was my battles with chronic pain that drew me to work closely with plant medicine. I had had little success with Western medicinal approaches, but Heberto could see and understand what the Western medicos could not, and I have made great progress with my treatment at Onikano. With my first visits I was primarily receiving direct treatment from Heberto, however, since starting dietero training, Heberto has taught me a whole range of ways to process pain; how to heal myself and others.

There is a great difference between the normal healing program and the dietero program. In the former, things are a lot more relaxed, with plenty of free time to interact with others and explore the property. The dietero program is much more intense, and you are somewhat removed from the rest of the group: you eat at a separate table in the dining room; reside in an isolated bungalow deep in the jungle; there are greater restrictions with diet; you are expected to meditate every day – preferably in the jungle with the teacher trees. In ceremony you must ‘work with the medicine’ – it’s not just a matter of lying back and waiting for visions. But despite its rigors, I can thoroughly recommend the dietero program for anyone up for the challenge. It is a big commitment but incredibly rewarding.

Onikano is an institute of shamanic medicine, not just an ayahuasca retreat. There are a number of other plant medicines commonly used here, including rapé, tobacco, sananga, san pedro and toé. As part of your treatment, you will be consuming a different plant every week on a daily basis, and these can have a profound effect on your wellbeing and state of mind.

Longer stays are highly recommended. That is not so say that one can’t derive great benefit from a one week stay, but it takes time for the magic to unfold here; a longer stay permits you (and Heberto!) to go much deeper with your treatment. It is not uncommon for pasajeros to extend their stays, and one of the greatest votes of confidence in Onikano is the number of people returning for their second, third or fourth visit. Every time I return I am reunited with pasajeros I befriended at previous retreats.

It is also important to note that Onikano is Shipibo run – the funds aren’t disappearing to the northern hemisphere as with most other retreats. It is very much a family affair, with Heberto’s sister, aunt and son all playing integral roles in the retreat’s operation. Other family members often appear at the Shipibo arts and craft market which occurs every Wednesday morning; a great chance to purchase handmade embroidery, jewellery and other goodies. Organization and pre-retreat booking is handled by Barbara, who is always happy to answer your questions and help with your plans. Don’t hesitate to drop her a line via the website if you have any queries.

Onikano is a safe, supportive environment in which to experience the wonders of plant medicine, and should you have any issues or concerns during your stay the facilitators are always there to support you and attend to your needs. This magical retreat has changed my life in so many positive ways, and I hope to keep returning for many years to come.